What is EHCI Certification Manager?

EHCI Certification Manager manages 5 data types including bundle links. Helps you organize, track, and share your work in 1 place for teams and solo users.

Project Showcase

Showcase: 850sqft Tigerwood wrap-around on a helical frame

Sam Whitfield Jul 20, 2026 at 10:34 PM

Just wrapped up this Tigerwood project in the PNW. Used 5/4x6 boards on a custom helical sub-frame. Had to navigate some serious radiused corners, which meant way more blocking than I initially estimated. Used hidden fasteners throughout to keep the grain clean, but man, those radius cuts on Tigerwood are brutal on carbide blades—burned through three premium blades just for the perimeter detailing. Finished it off with Penofin Marine oil to really make those dark stripes pop against the cedar siding. The client wanted a high-end look and wasn't shy about the price, but the material cull rate was higher than expected. Has anyone found a reliable way to minimize waste when dealing with these wild Tigerwood lengths, or is the 15 percent margin just the cost of doing business?

3 Replies

Grant EllisonJul 26, 2026 at 10:34 PM

Nice job on the helical framing, Grant here. That Tigerwood is gorgeous but notoriously unforgiving. To cut down your cull rate, try switching to a ceramic-tipped blade instead of standard carbide; the heat dissipation is night and day on those dense tropicals. Regarding waste, I started laser templating the radius before cutting any stock. It takes an extra hour upfront, but it lets you nest your cuts tighter on those long boards. Also, if you aren't already, use a track saw with a fine-tooth blade for those perimeter details; it burns way less than a miter saw.

Marcus WebbJul 27, 2026 at 10:34 AM

Solid work on the build, Marcus here. I feel your pain on the Tigerwood—that stuff is basically iron. Beyond the blade tech, I stopped relying on traditional offcuts for blocking on radius jobs. I started pre-staining my end cuts with a wax-based sealer like Anchorseal immediately after every rip. It sounds tedious, but it prevents the end grain from checking and splitting during those tight radius installs, which usually accounts for half my waste. If the boards aren't cracking at the ends, you can actually use those shorter segments for your blocking rather than sacrificing full-length boards. Makes a massive difference in that final margin.

Dana KowalskiJul 30, 2026 at 10:34 PM

Killer execution on that radius work, Dana here. Regarding your waste issue, have you looked into ordering specific short-length bundles from your supplier instead of standard 16-footers? I started doing that for my curved decks, and it forces better nestability while keeping the material costs from ballooning on the scrap pile. Also, instead of the miter saw, I’ve been running a high-torque circular saw with a vacuum-assisted track for those perimeter details; it keeps the blade running cooler and significantly cuts down on the burn marks. It saves a fortune in labor sanding out those scorched edges later.