Project Showcase

Showcase: 750sqft Tigerwood deck with hidden lighting integration

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Jordan Hayes

Just wrapped up this 750sqft Tigerwood build in coastal South Carolina. Used 5/4x6 boards with hidden DeckWise Ipe clips. Managing the humidity was a headache, so we let the material acclimate on-site for a full week before fastening. I integrated low-voltage LED strip lighting into the rim joists and used a router to create a flush channel in the outer header board for a clean, architectural finish. The client wanted a high-end look, so we finished with Penofin Hardwood formula to really make that grain pop. We charged $45 per sqft for labor and materials given the complex lighting install. Has anyone else experimented with routing channels into Tigerwood for lighting? I’m worried about potential water pooling in the channels over time, even with marine-grade sealant. Curious to hear how your LED installs are holding up after a few seasons.

3 Replies

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Chloe Barnett

Nice build, Chloe Barnett here. I’ve done several Tigerwood installs with routed channels, and you’re right to be cautious. Instead of just relying on marine-grade sealant, I’ve started using silicone-encapsulated LED strips with a slight downward pitch during installation to encourage drainage. I also use a thin bead of high-quality adhesive sealant at the wire entry points to prevent wicking. After three seasons on a coastal job, no rot issues so far. The key is ensuring the channel doesn't sit flush with the deck surface where standing water can pool. Looks like a solid install.

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Tony Marchetti

Hey, Tony Marchetti here. Sharp-looking project. On Tigerwood, I’ve had success using Titebond Weatherproof wood glue to seal the raw edges inside the routed channel before installing the LEDs, as that helps prevent the end grain from wicking moisture. For the wiring, I prefer running everything through Schedule 40 PVC conduit hidden behind the rim joist rather than direct burial or exposed stapling; it keeps the electrical clean and makes future maintenance a breeze if a driver fails. I’ve been using Trex lighting components lately, but I keep them slightly recessed behind a custom trim piece to keep them out of direct salt spray. Keep up the clean work.

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Priya Raman

Priya Raman here. Great work on the Tigerwood. Regarding your concerns about water, I’ve found that using a clear, marine-grade epoxy resin to pot the LED strip entirely inside the routed channel acts as a better moisture barrier than standard sealant alone. It seals the wood pores completely and keeps the electronics protected from the salt air. For the drainage, I usually drill a few 'weep holes' through the bottom of the rim joist at the lowest points of the channel run. It’s an extra step, but it gives any condensation or trapped water an escape route before it can start degrading the wood fibers.

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