Installation

Pre-drilling 1x6 Ipe: Carbide vs. Cobalt bits

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Nate Chambers

I am currently chewing through a 600sqft Ipe deck in South Florida and the high silica content is absolutely killing my bits. I have been using standard jobber-length cobalt bits for my 1/8 pilot holes, but I am burning through them every 40-50 holes even with cutting oil. I switched over to a set of carbide-tipped bits last week and the difference is night and day for longevity, but they are incredibly brittle; I snapped three just by slightly torquing the drill. Is anyone else making the jump to carbide for Ipe, or are you just sticking with cobalt and building the replacement cost into your estimate? The time saved on bit changes is great, but the snapping is driving me crazy on a job with this many fasteners.

2 Replies

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Sam Whitfield

Sam Whitfield here. I stopped using standard jobber bits on Ipe years ago—they just can't handle the heat. I’ve found that high-quality, split-point titanium-coated M42 cobalt bits are the sweet spot for me, but the secret is using a drill press attachment or a fixed-guide jig like the Ipe Clip deck spacer tool. That eliminates the lateral torque that snaps your carbide bits. If you aren't using a dedicated driver guide, you're always going to snap those brittle tips when you slightly tilt the drill. I build a box of bits into my quote and use the guides to save the steel.

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Sam Whitfield

To add to my previous note, if you’re still snapping bits, check your drill speed. Most guys run their drills at max RPM which just work-hardens the Ipe and cooks your bits instantly. Drop your drill speed down to about 600-800 RPM and keep a consistent, steady pressure. I’ve been running the DeWalt Pilot Point bits lately—they seem to handle the heat better than standard cobalt when you aren't red-lining the tool. Honestly, if you aren't using a dedicated stop collar to control your depth, you're just asking for broken tips when you hit that final plunge. Slow it down and let the bit do the work.

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